Monday, September 7, 2009




Anuradhapura (4th century BC - 10th century AD)
The Sinhalese people first developed in the dry, north plain region and then took root across the island to the west and the south during the 4th century BC. The strongest Sinhalese group in this period was the Sinhalese kingdom of Anuradhapura in the north.

In the 3rd century BC, Buddhism was introduced to the people of Anuradhapura by Arahat Mahinda, the son of Ashoka Mauryan emperor of India, and it was him that convinced the Anuradhapura king and his followers to convert to Buddhism. During this century that Buddhism went through rejuvenation in Sri Lanka evidenced by which the sacred Bodhi Tree (Ficus religiosa) -- the tree under which the Buddha attained enlightenment in Bodhgaya in northern India -- and the Theravada school of Buddhism can still be seen in Anuradhapura today. Following the teaching of Buddhism, Anuradhapura people were getting a strong sense of national purpose and national identity. It also inspired the development of culture and arts of Sinhalese people.

For almost 1500 years of Anuradhapura as a center of Sinhalese kingdom, Buddhism had flourished the kingdom with cultural greatness and civilization, however, as a result of its proximity to South India, it suffered from the repeated invasion and takeover of Anuradhapura by South Indian kingdom which was a major struggle to the state progression.

Between the mid-2nd century BC and the end of 6th century AD, a large part of Sri Lanka came under the rule of an Indian invader whose dynasty called Lambakarna and who paid attention to the development of irrigation. Today, the remnants of the enormous 'Tanks' -- artificial lakes developed for irrigation purposes in the dry regions -- that are scattered over the country are the reminders of this period of Sri Lanka history.

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Ruwanweliseya

Every monastery has a dagoba. Ruvanveliseya is the dagoba of Maha Vihara. It was built by a Sinhalese hero King Dutugemunu in the 2nd century B.C. The architect ingeniously combined the Buddhist philosophy in the architectural conception. He conceived this as a bubble of milk: representing life, which will burst in no time just like the fragility of our lives. Its dome represents the vastness of the doctrine; the four facets of the box oh top represents the four noble truths. The concentric rings there after indicate the noble eightfold path that leads man to illumination. The illumination: the whole truth is light and transparent like the rock crystal at the pinnacle. The 1956's restoration curb on the dome is much to the chagrin of the purists: which looks flatter than bubbly.


Ruvanweliseya is opposite the museum. It was begun to house relics; priests from all over India were recorded as being present at the enshrinement of the relics in 140 BC. A huge dagaba, It is surrounded by the remains of lots of buildings. you can see the columns often no more than 500 cm in height dotted around in the grass underneath huge rain trees where monkeys play. The dome is 80m in diameter at its base and 53m high. A small passage leads to the relic chamber. At the cardinal points are four ' chapels' which were reconstructed in 1873, when renovation started. The restoration has flattened the shape of the dome, and some of the painting is of questionable style, but it remains a remarkably striking monument. Today, you may find watching the dagaba being "white washed"- an interesting spectacle.





Abhayagiri Monastery

This was the home of mainly the Dhammaruchi sect, although it was open to many other sects including Mahayanism. There is little literary evidence as the rival monks of the Maha Vihara were the compilers of the chronicle. How ever, this 500-acre monastery was the biggest for 600 years, and Was home for 5000 monks. It was an international center of the arts, philosophy and mysticism, With branches in Java, Burma and China. Its center was this dagoba in ruin built over a sacred foot of the Buddha.


Abhayagiri Dagaba is left from the crossroads. It is 400m round and was supposedly 135m high in its original from (part of the pinnacle has disappeared); It is now about 110m high. Built in 88 BC by Vattagamini�
(and later restored by Parakramabahu I in the 12th century), it has two splendid sculpted dwarapalas ( guardians) at the threshold. the dagaba and its associated monastery were built in an attempt to weaken the political hold of the Hinayana Buddhist and to give shelter to monks of the Mahayana school. It was considered an important seat of Buddhist learning and the Chinese traveler/ monk Fa hien visiting in the 5th century notesd that there were 5,000 monks in residence




Sandakada Pahana


The elaborate moonstone at its base is in itself a distinctive element of ancient sculpture in the island.

These semi-circular slabs of granite or gneiss acquired increasingly complex bands of decorations over the years. They range from the near abstract tongues of fire and bands of creeper vines - to symbolic interpretations of the four perils of life. The latter consists of the elephant, a symbol of birth, the bull indicative of decay; the lion, resent in disease. and the geese, a symbol of death. Some also band of geese, which represents the dist between good, and evil. To some, the moon-stone is symbolic of transcending worldly temptations and achieving nib bane.

At the heart of many moonstones is a lotus petal. Buddhists regard the lotus as a sacred flower, a symbol of the male and female creative forces that prevails throughout Sri Lankan art, architecture, sculpture and literature. It figures in the legend attached to the birth of the Buddha, when seven lotuses sprang into bloom at his feet as he took the first seven steps of his life. The lotus bloomed again in profusion at the moment he reached the state of Enlightenment.




Jaya Sri Maha Bodhiya

The 'Bo' ( 'Bodhi') tree or Pipal (ficus religiosa) was planted as a cutting brought from India by by emperor Ashoka's daughter, the Princess Sangamitta, at some point after 236 BC. Guardians have kept uninterrupted watch over the tree ever since. There are other Bo trees around the Sir Maha Bodhi which stands on the highest terrace. In April a large number of pilgrims arrive to make offering during the Snana Pooja, and to bathe the tree with milk. Every 12th year the ceremony is particularly auspicious.


A board, paved path leads from the point you leave your shoes. It is shaded by a tent like structure - tasseled ropes crossing the path colored yellow, blue, red, white and orange. You can only see the top of the BO tree which is supported by an elaborate metal structure and is surrounded by brass railing which are bedecked with colorful prayer flags and smaller strips of cloth which pilgrims tie in expectation of prayers being answered





Isurumuniya

This small group of striking black rocks is one of the most attractive and peaceful places in town. It also has some outstanding sculpture. The temple carved out of solid rock, houses a large statue of the seated Buddha. You can climb up steps to the top of the rock above the temple to get a good view of the countryside. There is a cleft in the rock which is full of bats; they are fascination to watch. On the terraces outside is a small square pool; they are also some beautifully carved elephants, showing great individual character. Note the carving beside the main entrance just above the water level.

Isurumuni Lovers

6th Century Gupta style carving. The woman, seated on the man's lap, lifts a warning finger, probably as a manifestation of her coyness; but the man carries on regardless."
The figures may represent Dutugemunu's son Saliya and the law caste (Sadol Kula) maiden Asokamala whom he loved. It's known that he gave up the throne for her


Kuttam Pokuna (The Twin Ponds.)

These 3rd Century monks' bathing pools are archaeologically perfect. Observe the water input system to the pokuna. The water that feeds the ponds flows first into a filtering basin made of rock, It runs through a beautiful makara mouth and a lion's head into the smaller tank.
A submarine conduit feeds the larger tank. Stone Pun Kalas on the side of the stone steps joing the twin ponds.


Across the Vatavandana Para, a little to the north, you turn right for the two ponds- recently restored 8th and 9th century ritual baths with steps from the university nearby. Thought called 'Twin Ponds' , one is over 10m longer than the other. You can see the under ground water supply channel at one end of the second bath




Thuparama


Thuparama Continuing north from the Jethawana Dagaba, turn left at the crossroads to the site's oldest dagaba to house the right collar-bone of the Buddha. Built by Devanampiyathissa, the 19m high dagaba has retained its beautiful bell shape, despite restoration work, It is surrounded by concentric circles of a graceful granite monolithic pillars of a Vatadage which was added in the 7th Century, possibly originally design to support an over-arching thatched cover. It is a center of active pilgrimage, decorated with flags and light. Immediately to its north-east was the original Dalada Maligawa where the Tooth Relic was first enshrined when it was brought to Ceylon in AD 313. Chinese traveler monk Fahian gave a vivid description of its display, but only the stone columns remain
The THUPARAMA Dagoba situated north of the Ruwanweli Seya.
This is the first stupa (dagaba) built in Sri Lanka.

King Devanampiyatissa erected this in the 3rd Century B.C After Buddhism was introduced by Arehath Mahinda Himi.

Thuparama was in ruins in In the 7th century and restored, and a Vatadage was added. The concentric stone pillars standing right round the Stupa are the reaming of the old Vatadage


The road north ( Sangaraja Mawatha) goes 1.5 km trough the site of the 11th century palace of Vijayabahu I to the superb statue of the serene Buddha with an expression depicting ' extinction of feeling and compassion'; some think the expression change as the sun's light moves across it. Roofed to protect it form the weather, it probably dates form the 3rd century AD. It is one of the more active religious sites it is adorned with lotus buds and payer flags
Mahamevuna Uyana. Anuradhapura,
"Samadhi Budu Pilimaya"
This limestone image of lord Buddha is dating from the 3rd Century.
Seated under a Bo tree, depicts the Lord Buddha in the serene state of Samadhi, or deep meditation. It's not secret why the Great Indian statesman Jawaharlal Nehru found solace and strength in a photograph of this statue when he was imprisoned by the British in 1940s.
The kindness of Lord Buddha flows through the half closed eyes, Watch as as long as you like. This is the finest Meditation Buddha statue in the whole World.




Jethavanaramaya

Jetavana Dageba was named after the first Buddhist monastery (names of the Jethavanarama and Abhayagiriya Dagabas are sometimes reversed). The largest dagaba in Anuradhapura (considered by some to be the highest in the world). It is also being renovated with help from UNESCO.

Started by King Mahasena (AD 275-292), the paved platform on which it stands covers more than 3 ha and it has a diameter of over 100m. In 1860 Emerson Tennet, in his book Ceylon, calculated that it had enough bricks to build a 3m high brick wall 25cm thick from London to Edinburgh, equal to the distance from the southern tip of Sri Lanka to Jaffna and back down the coast to Trincomalee.

Its massive scale was designed in a competitive spirit to rival the orthodox Maha Vihara.




















Saturday, January 31, 2009

Ancient Anuradhapura


History of Anuradhapura City

Although people may have lived in this area since as early as the 10th century BC, Anuradhapura became a great city after the arrival of a cutting from the Bodhi Tree ('tree of enlightenment'), the Buddha's fig tree, in the 3rd century BC. The sacred branch was brought to Sri Lanka by Sanghamitta, the founder of an order of Buddhist nuns.

Anuradhapura went on to become a Ceylonese political and religious capital (4th century BC) that flourished for 1,300 years. In its prime, Anuradhapura ranked alongside Nineveh and Babylon in its colossal proportions—its four walls, each 16 miles (26 km) long, enclosing an area of 256 square miles (663 km²)—in the number of its inhabitants, and the splendour of its shrines and public buildings.

The city also had some of the most complex irrigation systems of the ancient world. Most of the great reservoir tanks still survive today, and some many be the oldest surviving reservoirs in the world.

After an invasion in 993 AD, Anuradhapura was permanently abandoned. For centuries, the site lay hidden in the jungle. Rediscovered by the British in the 19th century, Anuradhapura became a Buddhist pilgrimage site once again.

The revival of the city of Anuradhapura began in earnest in the 1870s. The modern city (population 40,000) is a major road junction of northern Sri Lanka and lies along a railway line. The headquarters of the Archaeological Survey of Ceylon is in Anuradhapura.

Today, the splendid sacred city of Anuradhapura, with its palaces, monasteries and monuments, draws many Buddhist pilgrims and visitors.

What to See

There is much to see at Anuradhapura, including the sacred Bodhi tree, eight major palaces, monasteries and monuments.

The Sri Maha bodhiya is perhaps the oldest living tree in the world. Around 245 BC, Sanghamitta Theri brought with her a branch of the Bodhi Tree under which the Buddha attained enlightment. The tree was planted on a high terrace about 21 feet (6.5 m) above the ground and surrounded by railings. Today, the tree is one of the most sacred relics in Sri Lanka, respected by Buddhists all over the world. A wall was built around the tree during the reign of King Kirthi Sri Rajasingha, to protect it from wild elephants.

Ruwanwelisaya. After defeating the Tamil king Elara, King Dutugemunu of Sri Lanka built this magnificant stupa. The stupa is known as Ruwanwelisaya, Mahathupa, Swarnamali Chaitya and Rathnamali Dagaba. The compound is supported by stone elephants, and the surrounding wall is decorated with 1,900 figures of elephants - 475 on each side. Successive kings added to the palace over the years.

Thuparamaya. Thera Mahinda himself introduced Theravada Buddhism and also chetiya worship to Ceylon. At his request King Devanampiyatissa built Thuparamaya in which was enshrined the collarbone of the Buddha and is considered as the first dagaba built in Sri Lanka, after the introduction of Buddhism. This chetiya was built in the shape of a heap of paddy. This dagaba was destroyed from time to time. During the reign of King Agbo II it was completely destroyed and the King restored it. What we have today is the construction of the dagaba, done in 1862 AD. As it is today, after several renovations, in the course of the centuries, the monument has a diameter of 59 ft (18 m), at the base. The dome is 11 feet 4 inches (3.45 m) in height from the ground, 164½ ft (50.1 m) in diameter. The compound is paved with granite and there are 2 rows of stone pillars round the dagaba. During the early period vatadage was built round the dagaba.

Lovamahapaya is situated between Ruvanveliseya and Sri Mahabodiya. It is also known as the Brazen PalaceBrazen Palace. There are 40 rows, each row consisting of 40 stone pillars and a total of 1600 stone pillars were used for the building. It is believed that it took 6 years for the construction of the building and the plan was brought from the heavens. The building was completely destroyed during the reign of King Saddhatissa. or Lohaprasadaya. In ancient times the building included the refectory and the uposathagara. (Uposatha house). There was also a simamalake where the sangha assembled on poya days to recite the formula of the confessional]. The famous Lohaprasada built by King Dutugemunu described as an edifice of nine storeys, was a building of this class. One side of the building was 400 ft (120 m) in length. As the roof was covered with tiles made of bronze, this was known as the

Abhayagiri Dagaba. King Valagamba ascended the throne in 103 AD. He waged war with the Tamils and was defeated. When he fled, a Nigantha named Giri shouted words of derisive mockery at him. Later the king collected an army attacked the Tamils by slaying the last of their leaders, and recovered the throne he had lost. It is said that he demolished Nigantaramaya (the temple of the Niganthas) and built the Abhayagiri Vihara in the same premises. Shortly after this event, the monks of the Mahavihara took disciplinary action against one of the bhikkus of the Abhayagiri Vihara, for violating a rule of the vinaya. Thereafter the bhikkhus of the Abhayagiri Vihara founded a separate sect there. King Valagamba's reign is marked by an important event - the first schism in Buddhism in Ceylon. Most learned bhikkhus lives in Abhayagiri Vihara. It consisted of a large library. It is recorded that during the reigns of King Voharakatissa and King Gothabhaya this library was destroyed and the heretical monks driven away. King Parakramabahu renovated Abhayagiri Vihara, then the height is said to have been 140 cubit]s. In the year 1875, Abhayagiri Vihara which had a diameter of 307 feet (94 m) at its base, stood to a height of 231 feet (70 m). The relics of the Buddha are said to have been enshrined in a figure of a bull made out of thick gold.

Jetavanarama. King Mahasen (273-301 AD) built this largest stupa in Ceylon, and possibly the whole world. A part of a sash tied by the Buddha is believed to be enshrined here. Its height is said to be 400 feet (120 m). This is considered as the largest stupa in the whole world. This stupa belongs to the Sagalika sect. The compound of the stupa is 8 acres (3 ha). One side of the stupa is 576 feet (176 m) in depth. The 4 flight of steps at the four sides is 28 feet (8.5 m) in depth. The doorpost to the shrine which is situated at the courtyard is 27 feet (8 m) in height. It is a foot (0.3 m) underground. There are some stone inscriptions in the courtyard with the names of donors inscribed.

Mirisaveti Stupa. King Dutugamunu after defeating King Elara, built the Mirisaveti Stupa. After placing the Buddha relics in the scepter, he had gone to Tisawewa for a bath leaving the scepter. After the bath he returned to the place where the scepter was placed, and it is said that it could not be moved. The stupa was built in the place where the scepter stood. It is also said that he remembered that he partook a chilly curry without offering it to the sangha. In order to punish himself he built the Mirisavetiya Dagaba. The extent of this land is about 50 acres (20 ha). Although the king Kasyapa I and Kasyapa V renovated this, from time to time it was dilapidated. What stands today is the renovation done by the cultural Triangle Fund.

Lankarama was built by King Valagamba, in an ancient place at Galhebakada. Nothing is known about the ancient form of the stupa, and later this was renovated. The ruins show that there are rows of stone pillars and it is no doubt that there has been a house built encircling the stupa (vatadage) to cover it. The round courtyard of the stupa seems to be 10 feet (3 m) above the ground. The diameter of the stupa is 45 feet (14 m). The courtyard is circular in shape and the diameter is 1332 feet (406 m).

Isurumuniya is situated near Tisawewa and was built by King Devanampiyatissa to house 500 newly-ordained children of high caste. King Kasyapa I (473-491 AD) renovated this viharaya and named it as "Boupulvan, Kasubgiri Radmaha Vehera". This name is derived from names of his 2 daughters and his name. There is a viharaya connected to a cave and above is a cliff. A small stupa is built on it. It can be seen that the constructional work of this stupa belong to the present period. Lower down on both sides of a cleft, in a rock that appears to rise out of a pool, have been carved the figures of elephants. On the rock is carved the figure of a horse. The carving of Isurumuniya lovers on the slab has been brought from another place and placed it there. A few yards away from this vihara is the Magul Uyana.

The ancient Magul Uyana is situated close to Isurumuni Vihara and Tissawewa and contains several ponds. There are remains of small cells, seats made of stone steps, and taps of aesthetic sense. According to legend it is believed that Prince Saliya met Asokamala in this garden. The largest pond in this garden is 31 x 55 ft (9.5 x 17 m) in length and breadth. This is not a place of worship. [edit] Vessagiri About half a mile (1 km) to the south of Isurumuniya is situated Vessagiri on a mountains region. Scattered are 23 caves made of stone. Above the caves are inscribed the names of donors. These are the oldest inscriptions in Ceylon written in Brahmi script.

Rathna Prasadaya was built by Kng Kanittha Tissa who ruled Ceylon from 167-186 AD. It is known that during the 8th and 10th centuries Mihindu II and Mihindu IV renovated that building. The bhikkhus of the Tapovana belonging to the Pansakulika sect resided here. Beautiful guard stones of the Abhayagiri Viharaya were found here. The Queen's Palace, containing the largest and the most beautiful moonstones, is near Ratna Prasadaya.

According to an inscription, the Dakkhina Stupa was constructed by Uttiya, a Minister of King Valagamba. For sometime by an error it was considered as Elara's tomb. King Kanittha Tissa had build an alms hall, King Gottabhaya built an uposathagaraya, where the bhikkhis assembled for the ceremony of confession, while King Agbo I constructed a large building. The Bhikkhus of the Sagalika sect resided here. The most popularly known fact is that this stupa was constructed on the tomb of King Dutugemunu. Human bones that were collected were sent to France and according to the scientific analysis it was revealed that these ashes belong to King Dutugemunu.

Sela Cetiya is one of the 16 main places of worship and is situated to the west of Jetavanaramaya. This was constructed by King Lajjitissa who ruled in the first century BC. The diameter of the base of the stupa is 37½ feet (11.4 m). This stupa has been given this name as the platform and stupa has been constructed in stone. A moonstone and guardstones can be seen here.

Naka Vihara is a square-shaped stupa built of bricks. This is constructed according to an unusual model and would have been similar to the 7 storeyed building (Satmahal Prasadaya) in Polonnaruwa. Excavations done in this place reveal that there were several clay caskets.

Kiribath Vehera. The remains of this vihara shows that it is 30 feet (10 m) in height and the circumference is 425 feet (130 m). The date of construction and the king who built it, is unknown. In close proximity to this are the ruins of an image house. There is controversy whether the Pattamaka Chetiya built by King Devanampiyatissa is one and the same.

The most magnificent specimen of bathing tanks is the pair known as Kuttam Pokuna at Anuradhapura, near Abhayagiri Vihara. The garden which separates these 2 ponds is 18½ ft (5.6 m). The larger of this pair is 132 ft in length and 51 ft in breadth (40 by 15.5 m), while the smaller is 91 feet long, the breadth is the same (28 by 15.5 m). The depth of the smaller pond is 14 feet (4.3 m) and the larger pond is 18 feet (5.5 m). The sides and the bottom of the ponds were faced with well cut granite slabs. Round the pond is a magnificent wall. Leading to the pond are a beautiful flight of steps on both sides, and decorated with "punkalas" and scroll design. There were underground ducts bringing water into these ponds and others emptying them. A wall is built to enclose the ponds, and inside it is a small compound.

Samadhi Statue, in the Mahamevuna Park, is one of the best pieces of sculpture on the site. The statue is 8 feet (2.4 m) in height and made of granite and the Dhyana mudra is symbolished - The posture of meditation in which Buddha sits in the cross-legged position with upturned palms, placed one over the other on the lap. [edit] Toluwila Statue Which has a close resemblance to the Samadhi statue at Anuradhapura, was found among the ruins in a temple at Toluwila in Anuradhapura. It is 5'9" (1.75 m) in height. The gap between the knees is 5'9" (1.75 m). The width between the shoulders is 3'5" (1.04 m). At present this statue is placed near the main entrance to the Colombo Museum.

In the sacred city of Anuradhapura and in the vicinity are a large number of other ruins. These have not been identified properly and many have been destroyed either by Tamil invaders or by vandals. Neither tourists nor pilgrims havepaid much attention to these ruins and information regarding this is meager.